Amsterdam
Amsterdam Restaurant Reviews
Until a decade or two ago, it seemed that eating in Amsterdam was tinged more with the flavor of Calvinism than with any culinary influence. All too often the filling yet unenlightened fare of charred fish or meat, overboiled potatoes, and limp vegetables remained the standard.
Today, happily, things have changed. Many of the city’s former industrial- and harbor-related buildings are being transformed into distinctive dining establishments. The term “New Dutch Cuisine,” thanks to the emergence of young chefs who are finding their inspiration from around the globe, means exotic foamy-textured pea soup with chanterelles and pancetta, cod smothered in a sauce based on chorizo and fennel, or turbot and truffle wrapped in potato spaghetti, stewed chard, and veal sauce. And international urban eating trends make it highly probable that you’ll encounter sushi shacks, soup shops, noodle joints, and organic bakeries selling hearty Mediterranean breads.
Although traditionally hearty Dutch food really shines only in the winter months, there are two imported-but-typically-Dutch culinary trips that cannot be missed: the Indonesian rijsttafel (“rice table”), where dozens of differently spiced vegetables, meats, and fish dishes are served with rice; and cheese fondue, which the Dutch appropriated from the Swiss probably because it appealed to their “one pot, many forks” sense of the democratic. The many cheap Suri/Indo/Chin (or some such combination) snack bars serve a combination of Suriname, Indonesian, and Chinese dishes, and although they are remarkably consistent, it is perhaps advisable to choose a dish that matches the cook’s apparent roots.
If you’re the type who likes to make your own discoveries, here are a few tips to keep in mind. In general, avoid the tourist traps around Leidseplein, Rembrandtplein, the Damrak, and the Red Light District. Cheap global eats are concentrated in the De Pijp district. A broad selection of middle-range eateries can be found around Nieuwmarkt, the Jordaan, and Utrechtsestraat. To find posher purveyors for a true blowout, head to Reguliersdwarsstraat or the Nine Streets (the interconnecting streets of the canal girdle between Raadhuisstraat and Leidsestraat) areas. Befitting a casual town, children are pretty much universally welcomed in Amsterdam.
Amsterdam Hotel Reviews
A 17th-century canal-house guest room: Late-morning sunshine streams through a drift of tulle curtains; outside the window floats a Vermeer-worthy view of the Keizersgracht, the most elegant of Amsterdam’s canals. After lolling under crisp sheets, the down-stuffed duvet, and a bed canopy, you get ready to face the day by heading for breakfast, stepping down the steep and narrow canal-house stairway. You enter a breakfast nook that is the epitome of gezellig, a term that embodies the notions of coziness, comfort, and pleasure. The table is set with ham, rolls, jams, and cheeses, and the lady serving you is as courteous as the ontbijtkoek (gingerbread cake) is velvety and rich.
If you consider your hotel an integral part of your travel experience—not simply somewhere to spend the night—then staying in one of Amsterdam’s registered historic monuments-turned-guesthouses is a true thrill. These lovely gabled buildings, which often overlook canals and have carefully tended gardens, allow you to intimately experience this city’s rich sense of history—from the inside.
Of course, not everyone likes the idea of beaming themselves back to the 17th century, so it’s good that Amsterdam is equally famous for its sleekly modern, ultra-designed hotels catering to savvy business types. And for those who’d rather combine some historic charm with present-day amenities, there are also a few top places (like the Dylan Amsterdam and the Pulitzer) that combine the best of the old and the new. These properties offer a kind of trompe l’oeil experience: the exteriors are historic, but their interiors are all high-gloss and luxury. No matter where you stay, though, chances are your room will have been scrubbed only hours, or minutes, before your arrival. In the world of Amsterdam accommodations, cleanliness is truly next to godliness.
